Occitanie, France

Acte 2 Yannick Delpech

Yannick Delpech, previously chef of L'Amphitryon, returns to the stage for a second act with this atypical and charming restaurant. In a former sawmill, he combines fine dining with the bohemian spirit of a table d'hôtes. Soaking up an atmosphere created by music and a video projection, some 15 diners per seating are served a surprise set menu. Readable and indulgent, this authentic cuisine enhanced with robust-flavoured sauces and jus (the chef's trademark) never fails to make an impression: octopus cooked in red wine daube-style and married with lamb shoulder confit; red mullet with bottarga butter; offal toast; beef cheek slowly simmered with braised leeks and slices of grilled rib steak… the names speak volumes! All the wines on the menu are organic and natural.

Agapes

In the trendy, hipster district of Saint Aubin, this tiny bistro, taken over by Arnaud Darbas and Virginie Béziaud, conjures up crisp fresh dishes oozing with distinctive flavours. The technique and creativity of the youthful chef, who trained with the best, are impressive: green asparagus and a light frothy sabayon with smoked olive oil; line-caught hake from Saint Jean de Luz, yuzu-laced shellfish and roasted white asparagus; Ibaïama pork, varied textures of seasonal veggies, garlic emulsion and a punchy gravy. In a simply appointed yet inviting interior, Virginie seamlessly manages the front of house, while sharing her passion for wine with diners.

In the heart of the old town, this handsome Art Deco building is home to a contemporary-style brasserie with an attractive glazed roof and an imposing Murano chandelier – a pleasant setting in which to peruse a menu packed with enticing options. Using local produce, the chef puts his own spin on the classics: seared salmon gravlax served with a mushroom salad; a fine cut of Tarn pork; a new version of tarte Tatin with Granny Smith opaline. Pure alchemy!

In the historical heart of the city, near the covered market of Les Halles Castellane, this restaurant has the look and feel of a loft, with plants, soothing colours and soft music. Chef Jean Gary-Bobo serves his surprise set menu, which can be adapted to suit your wishes, at lunch and dinner. Showcasing local ingredients (fish from local fish markets, meat from the neighbouring butcher, fruit and vegetables from the Hérault), the menu includes marinated sea bream with a pear sorbet and shavings of raw fennel; fillet of duckling with chanterelles and butternut squash; fresh fig tartlet with mascarpone and walnut ice cream. Wine pairings with regional wines are also served by the glass.

The premium location at the foot of Pont Vieux, overlooking the historic town and cathedral, is eminently Instagram worthy. The savvily revamped dinky bistro is run by a former art historian, whose healthy, colourful, well-crafted dishes hit the spot. This unorthodox, fine food DJ mixes South American, Italian and Comorian influences, with a scattering of lacto-fermented ingredients and a preference for organic sources. First-class organic and natural wines.

Sharing is the name of the game at this small restaurant near Place de la Canourgue, so let's partake in the pleasure of lovely creative dishes made with high-quality, environmentally friendly Occitan ingredients – fish soup, rouille, cucumber, celery; veal, purple beans, basil, hazelnuts, served cold carpaccio-style; figs, ricotta and honey for dessert. At this pleasant eatery, even the sourdough bread is made in-house.

Next to the Cap Leucate lighthouse, looking out onto the Marine Natural Park of the Gulf of Lion, this modern bistro located beneath the Le Grand Cap restaurant takes its name from the pretty little aphyllanthe de Montpellier, an endemic flower that blooms here in spring. Pamela and Erwan Houssin run the show, delivering a menu that is packed with fresh locally sourced produce: carpaccio of Leucate gilthead bream with house-made blini; wild prawns cooked a la plancha with a bisque emulsion. The desserts are an indulgent take on peach melba, rum baba and chocolate finger.

The name of this restaurant housed in a 17C presbytery means "happiness" in the Pataxó language and, indeed, a real sense of delight is cultivated in the form of ingredients from the market and the kitchen garden (seven permaculture vegetable plots!). Enjoy your meal in a stunning location overlooking the countryside, or on the charming terrace in the shade of the wisteria.

A chef dedicated to his craft, Patrick Lagnès draws on solid classical foundations and fine produce to deliver high-quality cuisine. He even tries out a few more contemporary dishes when the inspiration takes him, while desserts are the work of his daughter. Diners are served in the intimate setting of a small dining area done out in traditional style with wainscoting and period furnishings.

On the shores of Lac de Miers, close to the Salmière spring, this restaurant boasts a bucolic setting with its terrace jutting out over the water. In the dining room with its floor-to-ceiling windows, warm tones and white timber rafters, guests are treated to seasonal, colourful and inventive cuisine. The chef subtly pays tribute to the terroir (Quercy lamb, Carennac green lentils) and introduces original combinations, such as mango piperade with the fish of the day or a strawberry-rhubarb floating island.

Trout from Lau-Balagnas, rabbit from Julos, lamb from Val d'Azun, carrots from Lézignan, dairy produce from Ferme Sayous, coffee roasted in Sassis: Céline, the sommelier and restaurant manager, never misses a chance to sing the praises of the super-local ingredients that her chef partner, Mathieu, expertly crafts into succulent dishes. After training in top establishments (including L'Artichaut, Montpellier), the couple has found their way to our hearts via our stomachs and our tastebuds: organic egg, cream of Jerusalem artichoke, sweet onions, emulsion of star anise; squash-flavoured brioche and ice cream, creamy mandarin and marmalade.

A small medieval village. Tucked away from view, a 12C tower casts a shadow onto a stone wall, and behind this wall you come across this charming inn, which is certainly worth getting to know! Here they serve good traditional food that is at one with the monastic atmosphere of the place, all vaulted ceilings and stone walls.