Acte 2 Yannick Delpech

Yannick Delpech, previously chef of L'Amphitryon, returns to the stage for a second act with this atypical and charming restaurant. In a former sawmill, he combines fine dining with the bohemian spirit of a table d'hôtes. Soaking up an atmosphere created by music and a video projection, some 15 diners per seating are served a surprise set menu. Readable and indulgent, this authentic cuisine enhanced with robust-flavoured sauces and jus (the chef's trademark) never fails to make an impression: octopus cooked in red wine daube-style and married with lamb shoulder confit; red mullet with bottarga butter; offal toast; beef cheek slowly simmered with braised leeks and slices of grilled rib steak… the names speak volumes! All the wines on the menu are organic and natural.

Agapes

In the trendy, hipster district of Saint Aubin, this tiny bistro, taken over by Arnaud Darbas and Virginie Béziaud, conjures up crisp fresh dishes oozing with distinctive flavours. The technique and creativity of the youthful chef, who trained with the best, are impressive: green asparagus and a light frothy sabayon with smoked olive oil; line-caught hake from Saint Jean de Luz, yuzu-laced shellfish and roasted white asparagus; Ibaïama pork, varied textures of seasonal veggies, garlic emulsion and a punchy gravy. In a simply appointed yet inviting interior, Virginie seamlessly manages the front of house, while sharing her passion for wine with diners.

In the heart of the old town, this handsome Art Deco building is home to a contemporary-style brasserie with an attractive glazed roof and an imposing Murano chandelier – a pleasant setting in which to peruse a menu packed with enticing options. Using local produce, the chef puts his own spin on the classics: seared salmon gravlax served with a mushroom salad; a fine cut of Tarn pork; a new version of tarte Tatin with Granny Smith opaline. Pure alchemy!

In the historical heart of the city, near the covered market of Les Halles Castellane, this restaurant has the look and feel of a loft, with plants, soothing colours and soft music. Chef Jean Gary-Bobo serves his surprise set menu, which can be adapted to suit your wishes, at lunch and dinner. Showcasing local ingredients (fish from local fish markets, meat from the neighbouring butcher, fruit and vegetables from the Hérault), the menu includes marinated sea bream with a pear sorbet and shavings of raw fennel; fillet of duckling with chanterelles and butternut squash; fresh fig tartlet with mascarpone and walnut ice cream. Wine pairings with regional wines are also served by the glass.

Sharing is the name of the game at this small restaurant near Place de la Canourgue, so let's partake in the pleasure of lovely creative dishes made with high-quality, environmentally friendly Occitan ingredients – fish soup, rouille, cucumber, celery; veal, purple beans, basil, hazelnuts, served cold carpaccio-style; figs, ricotta and honey for dessert. At this pleasant eatery, even the sourdough bread is made in-house.

Next to the Cap Leucate lighthouse, looking out onto the Marine Natural Park of the Gulf of Lion, this modern bistro located beneath the Le Grand Cap restaurant takes its name from the pretty little aphyllanthe de Montpellier, an endemic flower that blooms here in spring. Pamela and Erwan Houssin run the show, delivering a menu that is packed with fresh locally sourced produce: carpaccio of Leucate gilthead bream with house-made blini; wild prawns cooked a la plancha with a bisque emulsion. The desserts are an indulgent take on peach melba, rum baba and chocolate finger.