Nouvelle-Aquitaine, France

Make a beeline for this little place in the heart of Arcachon, just a stone's throw from the beach. Behind the black and white storefront, there is a restaurant with a modern decor and a retro touch. The chef knows his stuff, astutely revising bistronomy and traditional dishes: eg a wonderful terrine of black Bigorre pork/poultry, updated with a red onion and pear compote; veal in a herb crust, sweet potato gnocchi.

In the upper reaches of the beach of Erretegia, this former haunt of the Arangoits sisters (‘ahizpak’ in Basque) is idyllically located opposite the ocean. Delphine, now alone at the helm, and her chef David Cerisier have devised a concise, modern and eater-friendly priced menu that keeps step with the seasons. Generous, enticing food, served on the terrace in fine weather, examples of which are a chilled cream of green peas, carrot and lime oil; hanger steak, gratin of potatoes, coppa and comté and a decadent crêpe soufflée in orange and Grand Marnier to finish.

In a neighbourhood at a remove from the centre, this colourful, bustling bistro with caramel-toned walls and cheerfully mismatched furniture celebrates each season (the name is made up of the first letters of the four seasons) in a light-hearted atmosphere. Chef Idir Fseil is a fan of fermentation, but also of open-fire and a la plancha cooking, and he prepares a good market cuisine: white tuna, cucumber water and orange in brine; pork belly with green chilli, raw cream and beetroot; beef tartare, fermented black radish, bottarga and grenaille potatoes. Booking is essential.

Brought in from Irun, where he already works in another restaurant, the Spanish chef is passionate about what he does. This place dedicated to tapas (which have their own counter), also serves charcoal-grilled fish and meat. Portions are generous – the starter of braised carrots, hummus and goat's cheese is a case in point – and the open-fire cooking is perfectly executed, as exemplified by grilled hake with mashed potatoes, garlic and parsley. Attentive service and a friendly atmosphere.

This engaging restaurant in the heart of the spa resort is helmed by chef Adrien Layssac who rolls out seasonal market cuisine made with local produce: txangurro à la donostiarra; Basque lamb, squash and sweet chestnut gnocchi. Colourful, flavoursome fare that hits the spot every time.

Amicis

In a chic district of Bordeaux, between Allées de Tourny and Place des Grands-Hommes, chef Alexandre Baumard (ex Logis de la Cadène in Saint-Émilion and L'Observatoire du Gabriel) presides over this elegant two-storey restaurant. Courtesy of a tasting menu (dinnertime only), the legible, delicate cuisine showcases quality ingredients, mainly fish and seafood, that are precisely and creatively prepared, e.g. plancha grilled squid, flanked by a rustic slice of Grenier médocain (local cured meat). Damien Amilien's desserts, as delicious as they are high-flying, continue in this subtle vein – illustrated by quince and burnt vanilla. The score unveils a more accessible bistronomic slant at lunchtime. Attentive service and a terrific wine list.

This pretty half-timbered house in the heart of the picturesque village of Les Bouchers is the domain of chef Olivier Polla. His modern cuisine lets the ingredients do the talking (foie gras, scallops, calf sweetbreads, female Muscovy duck etc), prepared according to his inspiration. A real treat for the taste buds.

This pair (she is from Ile de Ré, he hails from Bristol) met in a restaurant in Amsterdam, before going on to open this modern bistro in La Rochelle. Pale wooden furnishings, a zellige-tiled wall and a small terrace overlooking a pedestrian street set the scene. The culinary focus is French, fresh and flavoursome! The chef showcases his technique and talent, illustrated by hake with caramelised cauliflower, hazelnuts and lemon, while his partner regales us with desserts, some of which pay tribute to her grand-mother, Annette.

Tucked away between Place Camille-Jullian and Saint-Michel, a contemporary vibe sets the scene in the vaulted dining room whose bistronomic menu is ingredient-centred: in fact, some 90% of the fruit and veg comes from small, local producers. At lunchtime, you might sample a deliciously priced tataki of marinated watermelon in soy and citrus fruit or confit of loin of hake baked in olive oil. The culinary score becomes more high-flying in the evenings as do the ingredients. The menu changes regularly. Outstanding warm welcome and service.

Beneath the arcades of rue Minage, Arco shares a glass façade with Maison des Ambassadeurs but has a separate entrance to the hotel. The cosy interior brings together exposed stone, a midnight-blue carpet, grey and peacock-blue chairs and velvet banquettes. Head for the patio terrace to the rear – a charming feature. The menu has two options: an appealing lunch set menu and more elaborate dishes in the evening. The seafood and vegetable-forward cuisine doesn't shy away from original combinations: green asparagus with liquorice and lemon balm, line-caught sea bass with olives and anchovies, endive with shellfish, apples with saffron and lemon thyme. Embracing all influences, the short wine list allows for some exotic pairings.

Piperade egg "revisited"; Axuria cooperative veal with gnocchi and chanterelles; "Argi Eder tart" with caramel, vanilla and yellow lemon – the menu at this spruce rustic-style restaurant comprises fine cuisine with a Basque flavour, devised by a chef with a passion for local produce. Run by the same family for generations and surrounded by greenery, the hotel it is part of is an oasis of calm.

This 19C house near Pau is the haunt of a couple, chef Olivier Nicolau from Lescar, and his partner Karine, in charge of the service, both of whom learnt the ropes in star establishments. The subtle, niftily crafted repertory showcases regional produce: Projan squab, Lucq-de-Béarn mushrooms, Bahus-Soubiran lemon, Poey-de-Lescar pepper… Intelligent surf and turf combinations and generous helpings add the final touch to this epicurean portrait.