Make a beeline for this little place in the heart of Arcachon, just a stone's throw from the beach. Behind the black and white storefront, there is a restaurant with a modern decor and a retro touch. The chef knows his stuff, astutely revising bistronomy and traditional dishes: eg a wonderful terrine of black Bigorre pork/poultry, updated with a red onion and pear compote; veal in a herb crust, sweet potato gnocchi.

In the upper reaches of the beach of Erretegia, this former haunt of the Arangoits sisters (‘ahizpak’ in Basque) is idyllically located opposite the ocean. Delphine, now alone at the helm, and her chef David Cerisier have devised a concise, modern and eater-friendly priced menu that keeps step with the seasons. Generous, enticing food, served on the terrace in fine weather, examples of which are a chilled cream of green peas, carrot and lime oil; hanger steak, gratin of potatoes, coppa and comté and a decadent crêpe soufflée in orange and Grand Marnier to finish.

In a neighbourhood at a remove from the centre, this colourful, bustling bistro with caramel-toned walls and cheerfully mismatched furniture celebrates each season (the name is made up of the first letters of the four seasons) in a light-hearted atmosphere. Chef Idir Fseil is a fan of fermentation, but also of open-fire and a la plancha cooking, and he prepares a good market cuisine: white tuna, cucumber water and orange in brine; pork belly with green chilli, raw cream and beetroot; beef tartare, fermented black radish, bottarga and grenaille potatoes. Booking is essential.

Brought in from Irun, where he already works in another restaurant, the Spanish chef is passionate about what he does. This place dedicated to tapas (which have their own counter), also serves charcoal-grilled fish and meat. Portions are generous – the starter of braised carrots, hummus and goat's cheese is a case in point – and the open-fire cooking is perfectly executed, as exemplified by grilled hake with mashed potatoes, garlic and parsley. Attentive service and a friendly atmosphere.

This engaging restaurant in the heart of the spa resort is helmed by chef Adrien Layssac who rolls out seasonal market cuisine made with local produce: txangurro à la donostiarra; Basque lamb, squash and sweet chestnut gnocchi. Colourful, flavoursome fare that hits the spot every time.

Amicis

In a chic district of Bordeaux, between Allées de Tourny and Place des Grands-Hommes, chef Alexandre Baumard (ex Logis de la Cadène in Saint-Émilion and L'Observatoire du Gabriel) presides over this elegant two-storey restaurant. Courtesy of a tasting menu (dinnertime only), the legible, delicate cuisine showcases quality ingredients, mainly fish and seafood, that are precisely and creatively prepared, e.g. plancha grilled squid, flanked by a rustic slice of Grenier médocain (local cured meat). Damien Amilien's desserts, as delicious as they are high-flying, continue in this subtle vein – illustrated by quince and burnt vanilla. The score unveils a more accessible bistronomic slant at lunchtime. Attentive service and a terrific wine list.